
Like much of Italy,
Puglia is a land of contradictions. It is, at the same time, a complex and a
simple land, where tradition and history mix, oddly yet somehow comfortably,
with technology and the modern world. In this article, we hope to offer you
a glimpse of what makes up ‘Pugliese’ culture; it’s people and
history, and to provide you with a number of additional links and resources
for you to explore these themes further, should you wish.
Sometimes known as Apulia, Puglia is also known as
the ‘Heel of Italy'. It lies in the heart of the Mediterranean, even though
it is in fact flanked by the Adriatic Sea along it’s length and touches the Ionian
Sea at it’s tip. Generally speaking, it is relatively flat, although
there are areas of gently rolling hills such as those within the famous
Valle D’Itrea. At it’s heart, however, it is a land of lush Olive trees and
vineyards, of rich brown and red soils, mild wet winters and hot dry
summers, and of friendly, open people, with ready smiles.
Puglia’s history, belying the apparent simple nature
of the land, is a complex weave of colonisation, invasion and a continual
struggle for independence. Strategically located, and blessed with a rich,
fertile soil, Puglia has been a coveted possession for many a civilisation.
Believed to have been settled by the Greeks as early as the 8th Century BC, the Romans, Turks, Saracens and Spanish,
among others, have also held claim to parts of Puglia at one time or another
through it’s history. For the Wikipedia article on Bari, the capital of Puglia, please see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bari
Sometimes referred to as the ‘breadbasket’ of Italy,
Puglia historically produced much of Italy’s pasta, and today it still
produces over half of its olive oil. Increasingly, it is also becoming
known for it’s rich fruity red wines, particularly those from its Salento
region. As you would expect, food plays an important part in Pugliese
culture and, it’s main dishes are distinguished by an explosion of flavour
in it’s meat and pasta dishes, often through the use of freshly picked herbs
and wild vegetables, invariably obtained from individual private gardens.
Almost everyone seems to have their own small vineyard and, as well as the
inevitable olive trees, almond and fig trees are also often found in private
gardens or even growing wild at the roadside. To learn more about
Pugliese food and dishes please see
http://www.laterradipuglia.it/ing/ricette.htm.
In keeping with Mediterranean culture, the people of
Puglia love to congregate during the cool evenings and it is not unusual to
walk along the streets and find people milling on the streets, catching up
on local gossip. Lunch is something to be enjoyed and, perhaps because of
the hot midday summer sun, it is a long drawn out affair. It normally lasts
from between 1pm and 4:30pm, depending on the town, and most businesses and
shops, except for restaurants of course, are actually closed during this
period, so you need to take this into account when planning your day.
The architecture of Puglia is at once simple, yet
stunning. From a distance, many of the smaller towns appear as beautiful
‘walled’ villages, many sitting atop hills, with church spires and towers
often rising high above the rooftops. Close up, it becomes apparent that the
town ‘walls’ consist of near solid rows of tall, terraced houses which not
only define the town perimeter, but were also designed to allow the town to
be more easily defended against the
coastal pirates and bandits of old. Many of the houses are painted white to
reflect the hot summer sun and indeed Ostuni, located between Bari and
Brindisi, is also known as the ‘White City’.
Within the old quarters of these towns, a plethora of
balconies, doorways and arches all provide insights into the different
civilisations that have influenced their architecture. Roman, Greco and
Messapian
features are often seen side by side and Martina Franca features a wonderful
Gothic feel to it. The maze of tiny whitewashed alleys that make up
Cisternino’s Old Town conceal a surprisingly spacious clock tower square
inside, and it is not hard to see why it has been named one of the
‘Borghi piu Belli d’Italia’
– in other words one of the most beautiful
villages in Italy.
Puglia is the home of the Trulli, simple yet
beautiful dwellings with conical roofs made entirely of local limestone.
Built by peasant farmers, with some dating back to the 15th
century, they are today highly
sought after - despite the need to make heavy investments in their
restoration - by both local residents, and well to do outsiders. Whilst
originally a practical way for the poor farmer to build a home, today’s Trulli
have taken on a magical character, like tiny personal castles, with a fairy
tale quality about them. For more about Trulli please see our article
Trulli - how did they come about?
For the landed gentry, Masserie, or
farm-houses, were the residence of choice and the owner of a Masseria
would often own many hectares of land (one hectare is approximately two and
half acres), planted with olive trees and vineyards. Today, many Masserie
continue to grow olives and grapes, employing traditional methods dating
back hundreds and even thousands of years, although they frequently
supplement their income by taking advantage of the rise of tourism, doubling
up as B&Bs, or even luxury hotels. Thus, they become part of the Italian
Agriturismo phenomenon: working farms which also offer restaurant and
accommodation facilities.
Perhaps because of the successive wave of conquerors,
and despite it’s strategic location and ports, Puglia, like much of southern
Italy, has in the past been considered a poor relation to the more northerly
regions such as Tuscany. It’s
cuisine, with it’s use of pasta without eggs, and freshly picked wild herbs
and vegetables, the now delightful Trulli, and even the distinctive
style of furniture, known as Arte Povera, all originate from
the need to make do with little material wealth.
Today however, the picture is very different and the
enterprising nature of Italians comes out strongly here. Agriculture and
tourism are two of the more obvious contributors to the local economy,
however Puglia also boasts many small and medium sized enterprises,
specialising in foods, marble and limestone quarrying, textiles, shoes and
engineering. Grottaglie, in the south, is especially famous for its
ceramics and the many trendy stores and boutiques tucked away
inside most towns and villages attest to the growing wealth of the region.
In fact, many regard Puglia as a region which is
beginning to flourish, as improved transport links, it’s favourable climate,
the beauty and unspoilt nature of it’s countryside and beaches, and it’s
warm, inviting people make it a favourite destination for many discerning
holiday makers.
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